Indian Roller

Remarkable Wetland : Thanks to the farsighted Bharatpur rulers who created, during the eighteenth century, Ajan Bund to save the town from recurring floods caused by the Gambhir and the Banganga Rivers. It led to a systematic release of water and consequent flow of fish and growth of aquatic vegetation in the shallow depressions between the dam and the town causing the birds to congregate --- loads of feed was thus available for both carnivore and herbivore species. Popularly known as Ghana (dense), the habitat remained a duck shooting preserve for princes and their British guests, the first recorded shoot was in 1902 by Lord Curzon. In 1956 the Government of Rajasthan declared it a Sanctuary, which in 1982 was elevated to the status of a National Park - Keoladeo National Park. It is a World Heritage under UNESCO and a Ramsar Site of international repute for waterfowl.

Flora and Fauna : 379 species of vegetation have been recorded here, of these more than 150 species are aquatic, including the rooted, submerged and floating. More than 370 species of birds have been observed here, of these nearly 120 species are migratory. The flora and avifauna appear to be striking a natural balance, in numbers as well! About 45 species of Fish are found here, several species getting replenished through the annual supply of flowing water. Nine species of Turtles flourish here, treat to observe their forays during the summer when water is scarce. Sambar, Bluebull, Spotted Deer, Hog Deer, Wild Boar, Jackal, Hyena, Porcupine, Mongoose, Jungle Cat, Civet, Toddy Cat, and Fishing Cat are the prominent mammals. Monitor Lizard, Garden Lizard, Snakes, Rock Python etc are reptiles commonly observed.

User-friendly : Keoladeo is one of the most user-friendly parks in the subcontinent. One can walk all over the park, or go by bicycle. Using a cycle-rickshaw is comfortable, it can go up to the trijunction of three main roads, which is almost the central point of the park. Visiting hours are from sun rise to sun set, spend entire day in the park.

Woodland : Let us commence the session at sun rise. Through the rickshaw, we scan both sides of the main road to receive, at each step, the bountiful diversity of avifauna in this small size park, one third of which is aquatic. The first stretch is wood land and we come across Mynas, Pigeons, Doves, Woodpeckers, Bee-eaters, Treepie, Drongo, Rose-ringed Parakeet and some raptors like Owls (at day break), Black Kite as also Black-shouldered Kite. In the ground, Francolin, and Babblers catch our attention by their piercing calls. Thrushes and Bluethroat are possible around the bushes. A solitary Nightjar standing out as a wonderful novelty, is also possible.

 

Sarus Crane.

Steppe Eagle.

Aquatic : The second part offers shallow lakes dotted by Acacia plantations over earthen mounds, heronry at its best, each tree hosting nearly 50-60 birds belonging to half a dozen species. The air echoes with calls of young ones of storks constantly demanding feed which the parents fetch it from quite a distance, one by one.

Openbilled Stork, Egrets, Herons, Cormorants, Storks (Painted, Woolly-neck and Black-neck Storks), Spoonbill, Ibis etc are over the Acacia trees; Comb Duck, Pygmy Cotton Goose (Cotton Teal) and Lesser Whistling Duck breed in tree-hollows, while Spotbill Duck, and Purple Moorhen, Indian Sarus Crane, Little Grebe, Jacanas breed in watery grass habitat. All these species number in several thousand easily to be observed almost at hand-shaking distance from the trail used by visitors.

Around the lakes we witness the aerial performances by most colourful Kingfishers : Common, White-throated, Pied, and Black-capped. They are also perched over road side branches looking steadfastly at the water surface for any movement, to swoop down to obtain fish, frog or insect. They can keep a photographer busy throughout the day. River Tern and Black-bellied tern are scarce in the sky.

 

Black-necked Stork.

White-throated Kingfisher.

Migratory Species : By the time the resident species accomplish their family making initiatives (September-October), it is time for the migratory species to trickle into the park, time when the aquatic vegetation matures, thanks again to the receipt of fresh water. They reach here in large numbers : Garganey Teal, Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Common Teal, Common Coot etc. Hoard of Waders congregate during the same time like Black-tail Godwit, Spotted Red Shank, Green Shank, Common Green Shank, Common Red Shank, Wood Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Little-ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Little Stint, Temminck's Stint, Black-winged Stilt, Snipes (Common, Painted, Jack and Pintail) etc. Raptors mark attendance at the same time : Marsh Harrier, Pied Harrier, Pallid Harrier, Greater Spotted Eagle, Bonelli's Eagle etc. Wagtails are seen in aquatic areas : Citrine, Yellow, Grey, White, White-browed. Black Bittern, Yellow Bittern, Great Bittern and Cinnamon Bittern are amidst the aquatic bushes and it is quite a task to locate them, which the Guide does.

Gadwal, Eurasian Wigeon, Red-crested Pochard, Common Pochard, Ferruginous Pochard, Tufted Duck, Bar-headed Geese, Gray-lag Geese, Mallard, Common Shelduck, Rudy Shelduck reach here by November and complete the picture. Baikal Teal and Falcated Teal are also recorded here.

Limitless Birding : With their arrival, number of Bonell's Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle, Imperial Eagle, Booted Eagle and Steppe Eagle increase here. Common Kestrel, Red-necked Falcon, Peregrine Falcon, Northern Goshawk, Besra, Shikra, Sparrow Hawk etc are then observed across the park-sky as also observed prominently occupying the top place over trees within the park. Vultures, one time common in the park, now are extremely scarce and we can be happy to observe Long-billed, Scavanger and Red-headed Vultures. The Black Kites can be compensation. Both Lesser Spotted Eagle and Short-toed Eagles are resident species here, breed during the summer. Common Cranes reach here along with the migratory ducks to be observed at the edges of park lakes.

 

Painted Stork.

Red-wattled Lapwing.

All such birds are possible to be spotted across the lakes; the road up to the trijunction offers the maximum, stopping at Sapan Mori point as also at places of one's choice. We are on foot beyond the trijunction, where the rickshaw-driver shall wait for our return. The Bird Guide leads us towards the grass land habitat (Koladhahar), can be about 8-10 km walk to and fro (water bottles are carried along and if we decide packed lunch is taken along with). It is birding limitless as we cover almost all the lakes as well.

Around Bushes : Several Warblers are worth trying around the bushes : Dusky Warbler, Smoky Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler, Grass-hopper Warbler, Hume's Warbler, Greenish Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Lesser Whitethroat etc.

Notable Flycatchers to be searched across the bushes are : Verditer Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Paradise Flycatcher, Red-throated Flycatcher, White-browed Fantail Flycatcher etc.

Scarlet Minivet, Longtail Minivet, and Small Minivet display their brilliant colours over the tree tops. Iora, Shrike, Thrush, Ruby Throat (both Siberian and Blue), Robins, Chats, Starlings, Mynas, Creeper, Nuthatch, Swallows, Bulbuls, Prinias, Babblers, Larks, Pipits, Sunbird, Sparrows, Wagtails, Weaver birds, Munias, Finches, Buntings, Pigeons, Doves, Parakeets are among other species to keep us on the constant chase. Red-wattled Lapwing distracts our attention by its intermittent calls, and is generally around us. White-tailed Plover, Grey-headed Lapwing, and Northern Lapwing are possible to be logged in. The Guide takes us to such distant extremely dry and open land to possible show through spotscopes two significant birds : Indian Courser and Sociable Lapwing! Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse is found in this region.

Owls during Day : Owls are possible to be observed and photographed any time of the day. Spotted Owlet, Collared Scops Owl, Oriental Scops Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, Dusky Eagle Owl, Barn Owl are observed at ease; on record here are Jungle Owlet, and Mottled Wood Owl. Sirkeer Malkoha and Greater Coucal are across the grass. Drongo Cuckoo, Asian Koel, Common Hawk Cuckoo, Plaintive Cuckoo, Grey-bellied Cuckoo and Pied-crested Cuckoo cannot be missed as they call to serve alert.

Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets are common. Wookpeckers include Black-rumped Flameback, Brown-capped Pygmy, Grey-capped Pygmy, Brown-fronted, Yellow-crowned. Eurasian Wryneck and Spotted Creeper are over the trunks

Incredible Density : It can be a long day, at dusk as we return satisfactorily to the lodge. We discuss our objectives with our Bird Guide and plan our stay in a way that we cover the maximum species possibly by walking the least and in minimum time. And it is possible to accomplish because the Bird Guide has long experience of research, photography and other technical aspects in the park. It is easy to score a hundred species during the day. The bird-density in this park is remarkable, can be about 1,500 birds per sq. km, even more in the aquatic regime.

 

Ruddy Shelduck	Steppe Eagle.

Ecological Cycle : Flowing water is most consequential for survival of this park's ecology as it is received traditionally from the Ajan Bund, which receives it from the Gambhir River, the Banganga River hardly flows now a days. The flow has been cut off following construction of Panchana Dam across the Gambhir River in Karauli district (since 2004-05) leaving the park languishing for annual supply of water (550 million cubic feet). Your hosts are responsible to have taken up this issue, pressed it before the government authorities and challenged it before the Supreme Court's Centrally Empowered Committee (2003-04) which favoured their plea in its Report.

The habitat of Keoladeo Park is undergoing changes following inadequate receipt of flowing water and erratic monsoon. Therefore, optimum birding conditions depend on sufficient availability of water or abundant rainfall. The hosts are available to report such issues over the email or telephone to those desirous to know more. The park needs support of birdwatchers, experts, and visitors who can influence the Indian authorities towards its just conservation.

Knowledge Offered : The stake holders around this park have indescribable role which is to be noted to be hopefully appreciated : more than a hundred rickshaw-pullers and about seventy Bird Guides, all registered with the department of forest, have attained incredible, authentic too, knowledge about all possible aspects of this park. Often unaided by binoculars, they spot birds, spell out the English names and put forward information about their breeding cycle or migratory pattern. They reside around the park, hence share its future. It is intellectual property of these people, the hosts of this web site being amongst them.

In order to secure optimum birding, it is worthwhile to stay minimum three nights at one of the resorts. Extended stay takes us to Bund Baretha, Kot ka Thana, Talab-i-Shahi and Urmila Sagar, four wetlands outside the park which offer some such species which are hard to observe within the park. A (half day) trip to Bayana gives us an eye witness account of the breeding colony of Long-billed Vultures with spotting of Buntings.

Research : The stake holders, including hosts of this web site, offer us opportunity to undertake research as they have assisted many about different bird habitats to assess bird diversity, migration, breeding cycles, reasons of loss of species which were frequent at a place, vegetation changes and related aspects of great consequence, including photography. Birding season lasts for a few months during winter, rest of the months are devoted by them to such initiatives. Their knowledge is at our palms!